You've created some of the most cult fragrances in perfume history, what made you decide to launch your own brand?
I've been in the perfume business for forty-five years, and I can tell you that even after all these years, it's still the same passion that drives me. At Firmenich, I've always been able to create without taboos or limits, and I'm delighted to be able to continue working with them today, and for some years to come.The idea for Mizensir came quite naturally. Twenty years ago, Patrick Firmenich had asked me to create a line of candles to offer to the company's good customers. Given the success of this range, he encouraged me to develop my own brand of handmade candles, entirely handcrafted in a workshop in Geneva. Thus was born Mizensir.
How would you define the brand's identity ?
These are not niche items, but truly exceptional, highly exclusive products. Mizensir candles are entirely handcrafted in a workshop in Geneva. The brand's philosophy is not to offer decorative objects, but to allow the discovery of fragrances that we've " put in wax " while letting yourself be transported... The same goes for the line of skin fragrances, which we created later, which are more personal creations with a more assertive olfactory signature.How, after all these years, do you manage to never get bored ?
I've kept the same creative energy, and I still see perfumery with childlike eyes. I'm also lucky enough to work with a company that invests heavily in research and new molecules, which gives me a constantly renewed playground.What would you say is your greatest talent ?
Passion ! I think it's essential to excel in what you do, to constantly renew yourself and know how to keep up with the times.How do the creative processes differ depending on whether you're designing for a major brand or for your own house ?
The financial stakes are not the same. For Mizensir, we don't use muses, so we don't have a lot of costs and I can go much further in terms of creation, I'm totally free. On the other hand, certain elements remain intangible, particularly in terms of the fragrance's philosophy: it's about evoking grandeur, simplicity, and creating something different.How long does the process of creating a perfume generally last ?
It's very variable, it can last a month or three years. It's very difficult to know when to stop, like a book or a work of art, you always want to prolong it, and you're always a little nostalgic when you come to the end of it. It's difficult to define when a creation is finished, and it's rarely the last version that's chosen. For Kenzo Flower for example, it was the third version that was chosen... out of more than 4,000 attempts ! The story behind the fragrance is invisible, it's the emotion it gives us that's important.What do you think makes some perfumes stand the test of time and not others ?
For many, it's mostly a question of identity. Twenty years ago, Acqua di Gio was not trendy at all, today it's timeless. Ditto for CK One from Calvin Klein.How do you perceive the perfume industry today ?
I find that while everyone is capable of creating beautiful perfumes, beautiful bottles, the sector sometimes lacks a little audacity. Of course, it's very expensive, but many brands prefer to invest in image rather than juice. I think we're at a turning point in the perfume industry. Consumers are faced with a huge choice, but also with counterfeits and products of dubious quality. It's up to the brands to become more serious in order to restore the trade to its former glory.Do you have a favorite material ?
Cypriol. It's papyrus root, which I used when I created my first fragrance, FH77 for Courrèges. I'm also very attached to orange blossom, which reminds me of my childhood, and to rose. Materials, formulas, there are millions of them in perfumery, what matters is the story you're going to write with it.Do you think brands and retailers should offer their customers more in-store experiences ?
We're in a consumer world, people who buy perfumes don't need us to explain it to them. It's a solitary moment for epicureans who like to discover and follow their impressions.What is your greatest pride as a perfumer ?
Having passionate customers, having some great classics to my credit, but above all continuing to be as passionate as I was forty years ago, and continuing to cherish those creative moments.
Interview conducted by Kathy O'MENY and Mathilda PANIGADA
ABC - LUXE.com July 2017
