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Article: Citrus perfumes: behind the scenes of this Olfactive family

Parfums hespéridés : dans les coulisses de cette famille olfactive

Citrus perfumes: behind the scenes of this Olfactive family

In perfumery, the word hesperide refers to a Olfactive family Built primarily around citrus fruits, bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarin, grapefruit, and lime compose this world, instantly recognizable for its freshness, vibrancy, and radiance. However, the definition of a citrus fragrance is not limited to the mere presence of a lemony note: citrus fruits must play a structuring role in the composition and contribute directly to its olfactory identity.

Citrus notes are generally perceived within the first few moments after spraying. Their particularly volatile nature makes them favored top notes, capable of immediately giving movement and brightness to a fragrance. Bergamot can bring an elegant and slightly bitter freshness, lemon more tension, mandarin a rounder facet, while grapefruit develops a more vibrant character. Neroli and petitgrain, derived from different parts of the bitter orange tree, extend this palette towards floral or vegetal nuances.

There Olfactive family Citrus notes hold a significant historical place in perfumery. Closely associated with colognes, they have long embodied an idea of ​​immediate freshness and simplicity. However, contemporary perfumery allows us to move beyond this classic interpretation by combining citrus fruits with spices, woods, green notes, or amber. citrus fragrance can thus become more textured and complex while retaining the luminous energy that defines this family.

At the house of MizensirAlberto Morillas explores precisely this tension between freshness and construction. Cologne de Figuier, Classified in the citrus family, it combines bergamot and grapefruit with fig leaf, galbanum and pink pepper, before revealing a more woody and ambery base. Eau de Gingembre Meanwhile, it captures the spirit of eau de Cologne through bergamot, neroli and petitgrain, which are complemented by the fresh and spicy intensity of gingembre.

Understanding the definition of hesperides allows us to better recognize one of the most luminous styles in perfumery. Behind the apparent simplicity of citrus fruits lies a palette capable of expressing freshness, bitterness, greenness, spice, or woody depth, depending on how the perfumer chooses to compose it.

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